Wednesday, August 23, 2017

Substituting Yarn: The Wonder Woman Wrap in Shangri-La Yarn

The popularity of the Wonder Woman movie inspired one of this summer's most ubiquitous patterns: the Wonder Woman Wrap by Carrissa Browning, available for free on Ravelry. To create the Wonder Woman logo in shawl form, this clever design uses short row shaping rather than intarsia. We recently commissioned a sample for our booth, and it will make its debut this September 8-10 at the Wisconsin Sheep & Wool Festival.

The Wonder Woman Wrap, knit with our Shangri-La lace weight yarn.

The pattern is written for fingering weight yarn, but our Shangri-La yak & silk lace weight was just too perfect for this project: strength and beauty, just like Diana herself! 

When substituting any yarn into a pattern, it's important to make a gauge swatch first - in the case of this project, you will want to try a couple of different needle sizes to determine your overall gauge, and also to see which sort of fabric you produce with those sizes. Don't forget to wash your swatch in Allure, allowing it to dry before you measure your gauge.

The pattern is written for US 4 needles, so our sample knitter started there, getting 26 stitches in 4" of garter stitch, or 6.5 SPI (Stitches Per Inch, calculated by dividing the total number of stitches in your 4" swatch by 4 - this will come in handy later!).

The next gauge swatch was knit on US 3 needles, where our sample knitter got 23 stitches in 4" of garter stitch, or 5.75 SPI.

Here's where a bit of personal preference and just a little bit of math come into play: first, decide which swatch you like best. Do you prefer a closer knit fabric? Using larger needles with a lace weight yarn produces an airier fabric, so that needs to be taken into account when choosing your needle size for this project.

You may also calculate the finished wingspan of the shawl using the stitches per inch (SPI) from your gauge swatches to decide on what needle size to use. The pattern is written for two sizes using fingering weight yarn on US 4 needles, producing a finished wingspan of 60 inches for the smaller size and 86 inches for the larger size.

Here's how to calculate your finished shawl size based on your gauge swatch: take the final number of stitches for the top border before bind off (256 for the smaller size and 376 stitches for the larger size) and divide that by your SPI. Here are the finished sizes for both of our sample gauge swatches:

Small - 256 stsLarge - 376 sts
US 4 (6.5 SPI)39.3857.85
US 3 (5.75 SPI)44.5265.22

Based on the above chart, our sample knitter chose to use US 3 needles to make our sample shawl, and the resulting piece ended up being a little larger than projected based on the gauge swatch - after a good wet blocking in Allure, this shawl measured 76" inches wide!

Why the huge difference between the projected wingspan of 65.22 inches and the actual measurement of 76'? Quite simply, a smaller swatch won't behave the same way as your larger finished piece in the blocking process - there is a lot more weight to your shawl than the simple 4" square you knit for the swatch. Additionally, this shawl could be re-blocked to increase the height, which would bring the finished wingspan closer to what was projected. The blocking process allows for quite a bit of reshaping (hence, many patterns include "block to measurements" in their instructions).

But, as Stephanie Purl-McPhee says, swatching is still important to your process because it gives you a hint about what might happen in your knitting. In this case, it will help you make an educated guess on what needle size to use for your chosen yarn!

No yarn chicken here!

You needn't worry about running out of yarn if you were able to achieve a similar gauge to the above, because our sample used only 1 skein of each color (and our sample knitter had plenty left over, as you can see above!). Knitters desiring a denser fabric can try working with two strands of yarn held double; this will only require two skeins of Shangri-La per color.

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Shangri-La Wonder Woman Shawl
Finished Size: 76" wingspan, 13" height
Needles: US 3 Fixed Circular
Yarn: Shangri-La 50% Tibetan Yak/50% Mulberry Silk, 400 yards in 2 oz. -1 skein Ruby and 1 skein Gold (sample knitter had .8oz Ruby and .7oz Gold remaining).
Pattern: Knit Wonder Woman Wrap by Carissa Browning

Wednesday, July 26, 2017

Yes, You Can Weave With Yak! 3 Tips for Weaving with Luxury Yarns

Working with yak and other luxury yarns is a must for any handweaver's bucket list, but some weavers might be nervous about working with these precious fibers. The weaving process involves a considerable amount of tension and friction, and if your yarn isn't up to those challenges, your beautiful project can quickly become a disaster.

Here are 3 tips to help you weave with confidence using your favorite yak and other luxury yarns!

Tension Matters

Especially for luxury fibers, minimizing friction is the name of the game when planning your weaving project. A rigid heddle loom has only one point of friction since the heddle is also the reed, whereas a harness loom has separate heddles and a reed, which creates two points of friction. Additionally, a rigid heddle isn't tensioned as high, so fibers that would normally snap on a harness loom stand a better chance.

Fiber Considerations

Short-stapled luxury fibers such as yak or cashmere are wonderful to use as weft yarns, but for a warp yarn, you'll want to have another strong fiber such as silk, nylon, or bamboo blended in. Our two sample scarves which will be on display this weekend at the Intermountain Weavers Conference were woven with two of our yarns which fit this bill perfectly:

2/2 Houndstooth in Mice and Men and Charcoal, woven by Jonathan at MJ Yarns

Plain Weave in Joseph, woven by Handmade by Stefanie

Thoughts on Yardage

For any weaving project, there will be loom waste (the yarn that is unweavable at the beginning and end of a project). It's unavoidable! While the amount of unweavable yarn depends on the type and model of loom you have as well as your method for tying on the warp, a rigid heddle typically has lest waste than a harness loom. If you're looking to maximize all of that precious yarn, a rigid heddle is an excellent choice!

If you are wondering how much yarn you'll need to complete a specific project, there are some excellent tips from the Handweavers Guild of America to help you calculate the amount of yarn you'll need, found here. We also have some tips for beginning weavers found here in our blog archive!

We're pretty excited to attend our first-ever Intermountain Weavers Conference this weekend (July 27-30) in Durango, CO! We are going to bring the yarns best suited for weaving: Tibetan Dream, Lhasa Wilderness, & Shangri-La (you're going to LOVE this 50/50 blend of yak and silk!); we'll have skeins in every color in these blends along with select colors (and possibly some other exciting blends) on cones. See you there!

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Monday, July 10, 2017

Win a new Baby Got Yak pin!

If you like yak yarn and you cannot lie, our newest enamel pin is just for you! Baby Got Yak is the second pin in our ongoing series of custom-made, exclusive pins. Pin it to your lapel, backpack or project bag to declare your love for all things yak to the world!

We're also giving away a Baby Got Yak enamel pin to 5 lucky newsletter subscribers - click here to enter! (Hint: If you already get our emails, you are automatically entered in our drawing BUT you can also enter your subscribed email to unlock bonus entries if you wish!)

Click here to enter our Baby Got Yak pin giveaway.
We will randomly select our winners to announce in our newsletter and social media channels on Monday, July 31. Good luck!

Be sure to share photos of your BBR Baby Got Yak pin with us on social media using the #BijouBasinRanch hashtag in your post!

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Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Knitspiration: Light & Lovely Warm-Weather Projects

Lightweight, breathable yarns are the key to knitting through the summer months, and our yak/bamboo blend Lhasa Wilderness is a customer favorite when the temperature rises.

What makes this yarn such a great choice for warm weather? The addition of bamboo not only adds strength to the yarn, but breathability, too, thanks to microscopic holes in the cell structure of bamboo fibers which provide rapid absorption and evaporation of moisture.

Bamboo is also naturally antibacterial, a property that is sustained even after washing (in The Knitter's Book Of Yarn by Clara Parkes, bamboo fiber is said to retain its antibacterial properties through 50 washes of a garment).

When we were developing our summer palette for the Master Color Series, it seemed only natural to use Lhasa Wilderness as the base. Series 3 - Summer's Here features 6 bright & refreshing colors for summer, and we've created two must-make project kits for sophisticated sleeveless tops to keep you cool all season long:

Our newest kit is the Summers Here Striped Tank, a figure-flattering sleeveless top that's knit seamlessly in the round from the bottom up. Our sample is shown in Raspberry, Pineapple and Lime - click here to get your discounted kit!

The BBR Chevron Tank is knit in the round from the bottom up, shown here in Pineapple, Orange and Strawberry - discounted kits are available here!

Rainy days and air conditioning sometimes call for a knitted cowl to ward off unexpected summer chills. Here are a two lovely new designs from Andi Javori which use 1-2 skeins of Lhasa Wilderness yarn:

The Alora Cowl pairs a semi-solid (shown here in Blueberry) with a variegated color way (shown here in Joseph) to create a pretty oversized accessory. 

The Eton Cowl (shown here in Soft Pink) features textured stitches accented with glass beads; if you've been wanting to try knitting with beads, this is a great beginner project! 

We'd love to see what's on your needles this summer, be sure to share with us here in our Ravelry group or on Instagram using #bijoubasinranch in your post. Happy knitting!

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Thursday, June 1, 2017

6 Tips for Making an Adorable Knitted Teddy Bear

July 10 is Teddy Bear Picnic Day, and what better way to celebrate than with an adorable toy bear? For our newest project kit, we've chosen our super-soft yak and merino blend yarn to create a snuggly friend using a quick & easy knit pattern by Frankie Brown.

Each kit includes a pattern, 1 skein of Himalayan Trail yarn in Natural Brown, poly-fil stuffing, and a small amount of black yarn to embroider the features - click here to get yours!

At the request of the designer, Bijou Basin Ranch will be making a donation to her favorite charity, the Children’s Liver Disease Foundation, for the use of her pattern.

Here are some tips to make knitting and assembling your bear even easier:

1. Knit arms and legs in the round on double pointed needles (DPNs). Although the pattern is written for each piece to be knit flat and then seamed, you can save some time by casting on the called-for number of stitches for the arms and legs and working stockinette stitch in the round as indicated. The decrease instructions will still work perfectly fine, provided you remember to knit instead of purling in between decrease rounds. When you cut the yarn, you can thread through the remaining stitches and fasten off - no seaming required!

Note: Body and ears should still be worked flat as stated in the pattern.

2. Leave long yarn tails at the start and finish of each piece as you knit. These can be used to seam and attach pieces as you assemble the bear, which means that you'll have fewer ends to deal with in come finishing time.

3. Wash each piece before assembly. This will allow the yarn to fluff up a bit and fix any funky stitches or lumps and bumps that may have happened while knitting. We recommend hand washing with Allure and gently laying each piece on a dry towel and rolling it up to gently remove excess water.

4. Master Invisible Seaming. The pattern includes instructions and photos to help you seam your bear, but you can also check out this YouTube tutorial to demonstrate the technique. Below, we've used a contrasting color of yarn to show how the back of our sample bear was seamed by picking up the "ladders" of each edge stitch to create an invisible seam.

Pick up each "ladder and pull yarn through...
Zig zag back and forth...
Pull seaming yarn gently & voila! You have an invisible seam!
5. Experiment with placement. Attaching the ears, arms and legs will take a little bit of patience to make sure they are exactly where you want them. Try working in pairs and attaching them only partially to make sure that you like the placement before seaming the rest of the way and hiding your ends.
These ears are partially attached and
can be easily repositioned if desired.
6. Weaving in ends vs. hiding ends. Unlike other projects, yarn ends can be "hidden" by using your darning needle to pull the end indie and then poking it back through the right side of the fabric, then pulling the end slightly taut (away from the toy) and trimming it closely to the fabric. When you let go, that last little bit of yarn will disappear into the toy and be secured by the fiberfill stuffing.

You'll have a beary special friend to spend your summer with in no time flat! Click here to get your BBR teddy bear project kit, and don't forget to share your finished bears with us here in our Ravelry group.

Bonus: Share your finished bear with us on Instagram using #bijoubasinranchbear in your post and we'll send you a coupon code for 20% off your next order!

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Friday, May 26, 2017

3 Tips for New Weavers

We've enlisted blogger and new weaver Stefaniegrr of Handmade by Stefanie to work on a special project to display in our booth at the Intermountain Weavers Conference in Durango, CO this July 27-30, 2017. Today, she gives an overview on weaving for beginners and some of her tips for successfully completing this project.

Handweaving is having a moment, and it seems like many of my fellow yarn lovers are dipping their toes into this craft. Instagram is filled with beautiful handwoven projects, and there are also some great new books and magazines full of interesting projects to make, even on little looms. Weaving is fast and fun, but best of all, it eats up stash so you can make room for more yarn!


Most of us probably think of those large, complicated-looking floor looms when the word "weaving" comes up. I admit, that's what first sprang to mind for me, too. However, there are many types of looms available for today's weaver: pin looms, rigid heddle looms, floor looms, jack looms, lap looms & tapestry looms, just to name a few. A pin loom or a rigid heddle loom are fairly affordable and easy to use, so they are great "starter" options for new weavers.

After using a pin loom here and there, I finally took the plunge and ordered a rigid heddle loom at the start of the year - learning how to weave was one of my New Year's resolutions for 2017, so I am very new to the craft. While I can't profess to be an expert just yet, I have picked up some tips worth sharing with my fellow newbie weavers.

1. Weave a sample! Similar to swatching when knitting or crocheting, this is an important step to ensure that your finished project is the correct dimensions. If you are working with a new yarn, this is a great way to get to know it in the context of a weaving project - in this case, the slippery nature of Lhasa Wilderness (a yak and bamboo blend) required a small adjustment when weaving, since it doesn't have as much "grab" as a wool yarn does.

Sample weaving also allowed me to practice making neat selvedges (edges), which can be challenging for new weavers (and even experienced ones!). When you look at my sample swatch, you can see the point where I finally got the hang of working with the Lhasa Wilderness yarn - suddenly, the selvedges look much nicer!


2. Don't fear the math. Figuring out how much warp and weft yarn looks harder than it is, and it's easy to be intimidated by the math involved in starting a new project. Here's a quick walkthrough of how I calculated my yardage for this project:

Start by deciding what you want your finished length and width to be.

Finished Width of Project: 8 inches
Finished Project Length: 68 inches (not including fringe)

Once you set these targets, the rest is easy!

First, to determine the total width of your project on the loom - the finished piece will draw in (also known as shrinkage) once you begin weaving, so the width of your warp will be wider than your finished project width. You can either consult your swatch to figure out the percent of shrinkage, or use the standard 10% if you are ok with an element of surprise in your finished piece.

Total Width on Loom: 9 inches

Next, you'll need to account for both shrinkage and loom waste when calculating your warp length. For rigid heddle looms, it seems like adding 10% for shrinkage and 18" for loom waste is pretty standard, but this may differ depending on what type of loom you have or your own personal preference. I used these standard numbers to determine my warp length:

Warp Length: 93 inches, or 2.58 yards (click here for a free inches to yards conversion calculator)

The above number is for just one length of warp from end to end, so you'll need to do one last bit of math to figure out your total warp length. Grab a tape measure and count how many slots and holes are in 9" to determine your number of warp ends. In this case, that number was 90 (45 slots and 45 holes);.

You'll multiply the number of warp ends (90) by the length of your warp (2.58 yards) to get your total warp length.

Total Warp Length:  90 x 2.58 yards = 232 yards

Your weft will require approximately 2/3 as much as your warp, but I like to make sure I have a little extra yardage just in case. Either way, two skeins of Lhasa Wilderness yarn (shown here in Joseph) is more than enough to weave this scarf.


3. Finishing Hacks That Save Time. I think for a lot of crafters, the finishing steps can be real bugaboos - ask any knitter and most will agree that they dislike weaving in the ends on a multicolor project! The complexity of your project will play a role in how much finishing you'll need to do, but there are a few basic steps that most weaving projects require such as securing the warp ends, weaving in weft ends and, of course, blocking!

The first step to finishing is to remove the header, which is the yarn you weave at the start and finish to separate the warp (at the start) and secure your woven fabric. Below, the dark purple yarn is the header yarn:

Removing the header is a lot of like carefully frogging a knitted or crocheted project - you just go slowly and unravel row by row to avoid unfortunate mishaps. I made sure to do this on a flat surface so I could also use gentle pressure from my left hand to secure the woven fabric while unraveling the last few rows of the header. 

Once the header is removed, it's time to tie your fringe. Here's where keeping notes comes in handy - if you know that you have 90 warp ends, you can easily determine how many ends to tie together to make equal fringe knots (in this case, you could use 5 ends per knot for a total of 18 knots). 

I recently invested in a rotary cutter for trimming my fringe, and wow - is it efficient! You'll need a metal edge to guide your rotary blade, along with a cutting mat  (in a pinch, I have used a cutting board from my kitchen and it's worked beautifully). Simply measure how long you want your fringe to be, place your metal edge parallel to the edge of your weaving, and roll your rotary cutter along to make perfect fringe! 

Finally, you can use a blunt-tip tapestry needle to weave in any ends of yarn (unless you've "hidden" them as you went along); I prefer to wash my finished piece before I trim the yarn ends down so that they can settle into the fabric and are less likely to pop back out. Hand washing in Allure Fiber Wash is a great way to care for your woven scarf, since it doesn't require rinsing, plus is smells great! 

Keep these tips handy by sharing on Pinterest - pin the graphic below!

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Thank Heaven It's Summer: Master Color Series 3

Sunny days and warm weather doesn't have to mean a vacation from knitting or crocheting. We've created a new palette of refreshing colors inspired by the colors of summer: think cool, fruity treats like sherbet, Italian ice, sorbet, or ice cream!

These scrumptious colors are our latest installment in the BBR Master Color Series, dyed exclusively for us by MJ Yarns. For this season's palette, we chose Lhasa Wilderness, our sport weight blend of yak and bamboo: shimmery, light, and oh-so-soft, it's the perfect choice for warm-weather projects.
The breathable bamboo fibers are also naturally anti-bacterial, and they're blended to perfection with our soft, hypo-allergenic yak fiber in this popular yarn base. With generous yardage (250 yards per skein!), you can easily make a lacy shawl or a textured stitch cowl with just 1 skein.
Beat the summer heat with our new project kit, the Chevron Tank. Shown here in Pineapple, Orange and Strawberry, this on-trend top will keep you cool while looking cool. There are so many possibilities for mixing and matching with this fun project - you could even pair our newest Master Color Series palette with some of our other hand-dyed colors if you dare.

Each kit includes a print copy of the pattern, your choice of yarn colors, a BBR project bag, samples of Allure Fiber Wash, and a custom-made stitch marker from Purrfectly Catchy Designs, and is available for a special discount.

Click here to purchase the Chevron Tank Kit.

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Wednesday, April 26, 2017

Charted v. Uncharted Territory

I’ll admit that Glenna’s Cowl by Marly Bird looks a bit intimidating from the pattern photos. I thought it would take a long time to knit, but by the time I was halfway through the first repeat I was seriously hooked and the project was flying off my needles. Paired with the gorgeous stitch definition of Himalayan Trail, it wound up being a wonderful treat at the end of a few hectic days. I swear this yarn was made for cables! The rhythm of this pattern was just a delight and before I knew it, I was taking extra time with each row on the chart just to make the knit last a little longer.

I said the word chart, did you panic? Have no fear! Glenna’s Cowl provides both written and charted instructions. I realize there are few techniques in knitting as polarizing as charts. Knitters either love them or they can’t stand them. In fact, I’ve never met a knitter who was on the fence about charts. So what is it about charts that evoke such different reactions in knitters?
Ironically, what makes a chart useful is also what makes it challenging for some: it’s a visual tool. A chart contains the exact same instructions as a written pattern, but instead of stitch abbreviations they use symbols. If you haven’t used charts before, of course, those symbols look like hieroglyphics. They can be confusing and intimidating. Some knitters just look at a chart and say, “No way.” I’m just the opposite. I look at complex knitting patterns written out with a sea of abbreviations and commas and I’ve forgotten where I am before I’ve even started.

As I mentioned above, Glenna’s Cowl includes both written and charted instructions making it very accessible whatever your disposition regarding charts. It also makes this pattern a great opportunity to learn to read charts with a safety net. Because both sets of instructions are identical, you can use them together to check your work as you go or maybe switch back and forth if you need a break.
If you’re interested in giving charts a try, the best place to start is with the basics. The most important thing to keep in mind is because the chart is a visual representation of your knitting, the chart will always be read exactly as you knit as if you are looking at one side. Don’t overthink it! Here are a few basic rules for chart reading to give you a jump start.
  1. Start reading a knitting chart at the bottom right hand corner.
  2. Charts are read from bottom to top.
  3. When knitting flat, read right side rows from right to left & wrong side rows from left to right. When knitting in the round, you will read the chart from right to left for all rounds.
  4. The row numbers are located on the side of the chart from which you should begin the row.
  5. If you’re knitting flat, there will be RS & a WS rows of the pattern, so the symbols may represent different things depending on which side of the work you are on (i.e. a blank square may mean a K stitch on the RS, but a P stitch on the WS) – check your legend for details.

Keep in mind is charts & their symbols are just a part of the knitting language. We recognize a red octagon as a stop sign whether the word is printed on it or not. Given time, we get used to reading and using charted knitting symbols, too. Oftentimes I will focus the first 5-10 rows or rounds on familiarizing myself with the symbols. Then I’ll slowly widen my scope to see how the individual symbols work together to create the whole pattern. Before I know it, I’m referencing the legend less & less and the knitting gets easier & easier.
For some projects I’m able to memorize the symbols before long, but with others I refer to the legend throughout. Either is absolutely acceptable depending on the knitter, pattern, and circumstances. I know a lot of knitters who will go so far as to color code the cables and twists within a chart to further simplify identification. I highly recommend the use of highlighter tape to keep your place on the chart. These little extra tips can streamline the chart reading process and help demystify the charted symbols.
When it comes to charted vs uncharted instructions, we certainly are each allowed our own personal preference. Designers, Like Mary Bird, who include both I go back to again and again. Whether you only have eyes for written instructions, you’re a charted knitting fan, or maybe you’re just curious about knitting with charts, Glenna’s Cowl is an excellent opportunity for you to create a stunning cowl with one of my favorite yarns from Bijou Basin Ranch.

Sarah Chy is a Wisconsin-based knitter, spinner, writer, and small-scale family adventurer. You can keep up with her latest crafty projects and family hijinks on her blog,

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Friday, April 7, 2017

Yak Knitting Pins Are Here!

New for spring, we have some fun new pins to show your love of all things yak. The BBR Yak Knitting Pin will look great on your lapel or project bag, and it's the first in our series of custom made enamel pins available in our store.
These pins will be making their debut in the Bijou Basin Ranch booth at the DFW Fiber Fest this coming weekend, too - come say hello & check them out!
We're giving away a Yak Knitting Enamel pin to 5 lucky newsletter subscribers - click here to enter! (Hint: If you already get our emails, you are automatically entered in our drawing BUT you can enter your subscribed email to unlock bonus entries if you wish!)

We will randomly select our winners to announce in our newsletter and social media channels next Thursday, April 13. Good luck!
Click here to enter our BBR Yak Knitting Pin giveaway.
Be sure to share photos of your BBR Yak Knitting pin with us on social media using the #BijouBasinRanch hashtag in your post!

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Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Weaving with Hand-Dyed Yarns

We've spotted some gorgeous projects woven with our yarns in recent years; one of our all-time favorites is the Outlandish Tartan Scarf in Lhasa Wilderness, which is an excellent yarn choice for weaving due to the strength of the bamboo fiber in this yak and bamboo blend.

While the Tartan scarf example linked above is stunning, newer weavers may find it a bit daunting - but don't worry! Beautiful results can be achieved with more basic techniques such as plain weave, just by varying the yarns used for the warp and weft. The warp is simply the yarns that are held under tension on your looms - think of them as the foundation upon which you'll build your project. The weft refers to the yarns you use to pass through the warp.

Weaving has special challenges that can strain a short stapled fiber such as yak, bison, cashmere or qiviut - but it doesn't mean that you can't weave with it! As warp yarn is subjected to a lot of tension, it's important to use a yarn that blends yak with a longer stapled fiber such as silk, bamboo, nylon, etc. When it comes to weft, your menu of options widens to just about anything your heart desires!

On the whole, yak is a very durable fiber that holds up well for all fiber arts; yak yarn and weaving can actually work quite well together! Shangri-La (yak/silk), Lhasa Wilderness (yak/bamboo) and Tibetan Dream (Yak, nylon) are all excellent yarn choices which have been very popular in weaving circles for quite some time.

While there are many ways you can experiment with hand-dyed colors in your weaving project, here are a few ideas to get you started!

Example #1: Semi-Solid Warp & Weft
In the sample swatch pictured at left, we've used Laoghaire for both the warp and weft.  

Example #2: Variegated Warp & Semi-Solid Weft
In the sample swatch pictured at left, we've used Coastal Breeze for the warp and a semi-solid for the weft (we recommend trying Deep Teal or Azure).

Example #3: Variegated Warp & Weft
In the sample swatch pictured at left, we've used Joseph for both the warp and weft.

Example #4: Semi-Solid Warp & Variegated Weft
In the sample swatch pictured at left, we've used Laoghaire for the warp and a variegated color way for the weft.

Bijou Basin Ranch will be attending the Intermountain Weavers Conference in Durango, CO this July 27-30, 2017, and we're excited to share more weaving inspiration & tips with you between now and then!

Friday, March 10, 2017

3 Tips for Working With Multiple Colors of Yarn

On our last blog post, Jonathan of MJ Yarns shared several ways to combine colors from our Master Color Series 2 Palette, Winter Begone! Today, we'll share some of our favorite tips for working with multiple colors of yarn within the context of any project.

1. Swatch it out.
Since you're knitting a swatch anyway, why not experiment with color placement as you knit? When determining the color order for the Sand Layers Shawl kit, our sample knitter experimented with color placement while swatching:

There's no need to make multiple swatches - unless you want to, of course!

2. Does it pass the B&W photo test? 
While we always recommend swatching before starting a project to ensure that you have the correct gauge, here is a shortcut to determining whether or not the colors you've chosen have enough contrast - without knitting a single stitch!

First, arrange your skeins in the order they will be used & snap a photo (you can also wrap strands of yarn around a knitting needle or bobbin as we've done here, if you prefer).

Next, convert it to Black & White (your phone or photo editing app may call this Grayscale).

Some color combinations have less contrast once the hue is removed, which means that as the eye views the colors in the context of a finished project, they may become muted instead of contrasting crisply. In the example above, the blue and purple color are difficult to distinguish, but the addition of the yellow-green yarn between both the blue and purple color produces a crisp contrast.

3. Manage yarn for color dominance.
Did you know that how you hold your yarns can affect how the colors appear in the finished project? Ysolda Teague shared this case study demonstrating how holding a working strand of yarn either above or below the contrasting color (or colors) or yarn affected the overall appearance of each color in a Fair Isle project.

This also holds true for stranded color work, as we saw in one of our favorite project kits, the Xanadu Snowflake Cowl by Julie Crawford. Here, the stranded snowflake motif "popped" by holding the Main Color (Mocha) over the Contrast Color (Natural White).

We hope you find these tips helpful when approaching your next color work project. Please share your projects using our Master Color Series yarns (or any other Bijou Spun yarns!) with us on Instagram using the #bijoubasinranch hashtag!

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